MILAN — Italian luxury label Gucci drew from its past to present an eclectic mix of looks at its womenswear show at Milan Fashion Week on Friday, paving the way for the next chapter as it awaits its new creative director.
The brand’s creative team revisited Gucci’s glamorous and colorful looks of the 1990s, 2000s, and 2010s — nodding to silhouettes and creations by past designers like Tom Ford and Frida Giannini. (See the show here: GUCCI Fall Winter 2023 Women’s Collection Fashion Show GUCCI® )
Gucci parted ways with its star designer Alessandro Michele last November as sales lagged competitors, and the prized brand of French luxury group Kering will welcome its new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, later this year.
A model wearing a tiny metallic bikini top, long black satin pencil skirt and gloves opened the show. Androgynous trouser suits followed as did plenty of faux fur coats in lilac, blue, fuchsia, and yellow. There were furry lapels, oversized knits, footwear, and bags. One coat dazzled with sparkling silver fringes.
“The Gucci Fall Winter 2023 Women’s Collection connects the creative cultures that cross-pollinate the history of the House in an evocative but contemporary proposal,” show notes read.
“A free expression founded in collective memories that blur the lines of time, it is an illustration of the beating heart of Gucci: the ecosystem of designers and artisans whose shared understanding of the House has passed down and evolved from creative to creative for over a century.”
Slim trousers were slit at the bottom front while bustier dresses had exaggerated sides. One model wore a crumpled shirt tucked into a miniskirt, others were dressed in coats with voluminous shoulders.
There were plenty of see-through designs: white embroidered sheer shirts and skirts and black transparent dresses.
Tights were red, orange, lime and pale blue. There were new offerings of the Gucci loafer and the brand’s famed handbags.
At the end of the show, Gucci’s creative team came out to loud applause. Mr. De Sarno will present his first collection for Gucci in September.
TOD’SAt Tod’s, creative director Walter Chiapponi offered a sober collection in earthy tones that played with tailoring. (See show here: Women’s Looks – Autumn-Winter 2023/2024 Collection